Born – sight: Santa Maria del Mar

(EN below)

Jeg er ikke meget for kirken som institution, men jeg elsker kirken som “rum”. For mig er der noget bevægende og højtideligt over kirkerum. De vidner om livets gang, de folk som igennem tiderne har benyttet kirken, landets og bygens historie og menneskehedens skaberkraft. De giver anledning til at undres, at bevæges og reflektere over livets store og små spørgsmål. Dette er, for mig, ikke mindst gældende for kirken: Santa Maria del Mar, som ligger midt i den del af Born, som ligger tættest på havet (på spansk: mar) – faktisk gik havet i datidens Barcelona helt op til kirken.

Kirken knejser op midt i Born og virker måske lidt for stor i forhold til de snævre gader og små pladser omkring den, men det gør ikke noget. Og lige så stor, som den virker udenfor, lige så let og elegant er den indenfor med de smukke søjler og glasmosaikker. Kirken er et smukt eksempel på catalansk gotisk arkitektur.

Kirken blev i sin tid bygget på “public demand”. Efter sigende var det ikke muligt for almindelige mennesker i datiden at komme ind i den kirke, som lå tættest på, nemlig Barcelonas Katedral. Den var først og fremmest reserveret Barcelonas kongelige og adelige, og der var derfor behov for en kirke til “folket”. Et sted, hvor Barcelonas – og Borns – almindelige befolkning kunne udøve deres tro.

Borns indbyggere tog derfor sagen i egen hånd og byggede deres egen kirke i deres kvarter. Et folkets kirke, der fik navnet: Santa Maria del Mar. Kirkebyggeriet blev støttet af den katolske kirke, ligesom kongen – Pere III – tillod, at sten til kirken blev brudt i stenbruddet på MontJüic. Til gengæld finansierede Borns indbyggere selv kirken, ligesom de selv udførte det praktiske arbejde med at bygge kirken – naturligvis i deres fritid. Lidt imponerende, når man tænker på, at de jo næppe havde en 37 timers arbejdsuge dengang, tværtimod.

Og folkets byggeprojekt bliver ikke mindre imponerende af, at kirken blev bygget på rekordtid. Første sten blev lagt d. 25. marts 1329, og den sidste sted blev lagt d. 3. november 1383. Nogle dele, f.eks. de to tårn, blev først færdige efterfølgende, men den egentlige kirke blev bygget og indviet på kun 54 år! Igen imponerende, ikke mindst i lyset af at kirken var selvfinansieret, bygget på egen arbejdskraft og ja, så i 1400-tallet…

Og det var ikke uden smerte og lidelse, som du kan se på de to figurer, som er at finde på porten ved indgangen af kirken. Her kan du se to af de såkaldte “bastaixos”, de arbejdere som på ryggen slæbte de store sten til byggeriet ned fra Montjüic til byggepladsen. Har du læst Ildefonso Falconés bestseller: Havets katedral, får du et glimrende indblik i datidens Barcelona og kirkebyggeriet (Santa Maria del Mar er dog ikke en katedral, det kræver, at der er en biskop tilknyttet, og kirken er derfor “bare” en kirke).

Kirken er ikke gået upåvirket igennem tiderne. Et jordskæld i 1428 ødelagde den originale glas-roset over indgangen, og i 1936, i starten af den spanske borgerkrig, blev der sat ild til kirken. Den brændte i 11 dage, og alteret og størstedelen af udsmykningen blev destrueret. Dette er grunden til, at Santa Maria del Mar er meget enkel af en katolsk kirke at være – faktisk kan du stadigvæk se spor af sod og røg fra dengang i kirkens loft.

Det er muligt at købe billetter til forskellige rundvisninger i kirken, hvor du bl.a. kommer op på kirkens tag for at nyde udsigten ud over Born og resten af Barcelona. Men du kan også bare vælge at stikke hovedet ind i kirken, når du kommer forbi. Kommer du på de lidt skæve tidspunkter, kan du som regel bare gå ind, tage en tur rundt i kirken eller sætte dig på en kirkebænk og nyde kirkerummet for en stund. Husk dog lige at hilse på de to “bastaixos” på indgangsporten.

Du finder mere information på Santa Maria del Mars hjemmeside.

UK

I’m not much for the church as an institution, but I love the church as a “place”. To me there is something moving and solemnly about a church room. In some way, they reflect the passage of life, those people who – throughout the ages – have attented the church, the history of the country and the city, and the creativity of mankind. They give room to wonder and reflect on life in general. This – for me – also apply for the church: Santa Maria del Mar, located in the middle of Born, in the part closest to the sea (in Spanish: mar) – in fact, the sea at that time in Barcelona went all the way to the church.

The church is located in the middle of Born and may seem a little too big compared to the narrow streets and small places around it, but it does not matter. As big as it seems on the outside, as light and elegant it is inside with its beautiful columns and glass mosaics. The church is a beautiful example of Catalan Gothic architecture.

The church was built on the “public demand”. At that time, it was not possible for the ordinary people to attend the nearest church, the Cathedral of Barcelona. It was first and foremost reserved for the royal and nobility of Barcelona, ​​and there was therefore a need for a church for the “common people”. A place where Barcelona’s and Born’s ordinary people could exercise their faith.

Born’s inhabitants took therefore the matter in their own hands and built their own church in their neighborhood. A people’s church named: Santa Maria del Mar. The building of the church was supported by the Catholic Church, and the King – Pere III – allowed stone for the church to be broken in the quarry of MontJüic. On the other hand, Born’s people themselves financed the construction as well as they did the actual construction work of church themselfes- of course in their spare time. Quite impressive as they hardly had a 37-hour working week back then, on the contrary.

And the people’s building project is no less impressive by the fact that the church was built in record time. The cornerstones were laid on March 25, 1329, and the last stone was laid on November 3, 1383. Some of the parts, ex. the towers were completed afterwards, but the actual church was built and put into service in only 54 years! Again, impressive seen in the light of the fact that it was self-financed, build by own labor and in the 1400s ….

The construction of the church has not been without suffering, if you take a look at the two figures on the entrance of the church. Here you can see two of the so-called “bastaixos”, the workers who carried the big stones for the church on their backs from Montjüic to the construction site. If you have read Ildefonso Falconés bestseller: The cathedral of the sea, you will have an excellent insight into Barcelona at that time and the building of the church (Santa Maria del Mar is not a cathedral, as that requires that there is a bishop attached and the church is therefore “just” a church ).

The church has not gone through the ages unaffected. An earthquake in 1428 destroyed the original glass mosaic over the entrance, and in 1936, at the beginning of the Spanish civil war, fire was set to the church. It burned for 11 days, and the altar and the majority of the decoration were destroyed. This is the reason why Santa Maria del Mar is quite simple Catholic church – in fact you can still see traces of smoke in the ceiling of the church.

It is possible to buy tickets for different tours in the church where you can enter the roof of the church and enjoy a view of Born and the rest of Barcelona. But you can also pop in to the church when you past by. If you pass by in the mornings or late afternoons, you can normaly just enter, take a walk around the church or sit on a bench and enjoy the church for a while. Remember, however, to greet the two “bastaixos” at the entrance gate when you come or leave.

You will find more information on the Santa Maria del Mars website.